The fashion icon Edward Enninful on Today's Society: 'We Are Less Tolerant Now' Than We Were Decades Ago.

A chance encounter while riding the tube in 1988 transformed the course of a teenage Ghanaian newcomer to Britain. Scouted as a model, Edward Enninful was rapidly ushered into the capital's vibrant 1990s cultural landscape, evolving from mannequin to stylist and, by the age of 18, becoming the fashion director of i-D magazine.

"That era was the peak of the Britart scene – Tracey Emin, Jay Jopling. I met Kate Moss at a casting," he states. "Then Naomi Campbell for a cover, and I knew we’d be kindred spirits. We all mixed across disciplines. Friday became Saturday into Sunday. I yearn for that rawness."

Although Enninful appears wistful, he is far from alone. In recent times, a longing look back of the 1990s has grown intense. Yet since that time, Enninful believes a noticeable regression. "I feel, we’re less tolerant now than we were in the 90s," he says. "This isn't just this country – it’s worldwide."

A Perceived Regression

This regression is hard to ignore: the growth of far-right politics, the backlash against social awareness, and the reassertion of traditional beauty standards. Where once there was the optimism of the Blair era, currently a different political force stands as a possible leader. Furthermore, the British flag, once an symbol of Cool Britannia, has sparked debate once more.

According to Enninful, the solution has always been to champion culture in all its diversity. This was the guiding principle behind his seminal issue as editor of British Vogue in 2017, which served as a portrait of modern Britain, showcasing a diverse array of influential figures from art.

"Individuals with a platform should use it," he comments, referring to those publishing choices. "There is much discussion about immigration; I wouldn't be here if Britain was not a open country, if it did not offer my family a home and an opportunity. That’s the Britain I always loved. I believe this phase will end."

Hope in the Next Generation

He finds hope in the younger generation: "Their awareness is greater than we were. They analyse unconscious bias – I was not even aware what that was."

Those early experiences would forge a trailblazing career marked by boldness and diversity. Enninful broke barriers as the first man, first black man, first gay man, and first disabled Black gay man to lead at British Vogue. His tenure featured historic front pages showcasing Black models, plus-sized women, older individuals, and individuals from all walks of life. Significantly, sales increased.

"Ignoring huge sections of the population, it’s more than that you’re failing to represent – it’s a poor strategy," he states.

A New Chapter as a 'Disruptor'

He has recently launched his agency EE72 and its accompanying magazine, 72, his key endeavour since departing his former post. He says he wants to continue being a "change-maker".

"I’ve always questioned the conventional wisdom. I was brought up in a place where everybody was black – the doctors, the lawyers, the president. Then we came to England, without funds, and I found myself on the margins. I was very shy. My teachers declared I’d never amount to anything. Me and my brothers were subject to police stops the suspicion laws … all that gave me a dual identity on the inside and the outside."

Contrary to the stereotype of industry figures as brash and temperamental, Enninful is measured in tone and exudes calm. His journey has not been immune to hardship, including well-documented battles with mental health and substance use.

He has also undergone significant health challenges, having had multiple operations on his eyes, resulting in impaired eyesight. "I experienced such a difficult period for two years, away from work, fearing I was going to go blind. It’s similar to PTSD; you just live in fear 24/7. I thought, if this ever ends, I’m just going to pursue all that I was so afraid to do. I’m not going to restrict myself to just being an editor or a figure in fashion."

The Tate Britain Exhibition

This drive to be typecast has led him outside the industry that built his career. He is now organising a major 1990s exhibition at Tate Britain, featuring work by a host of pivotal artists and photographers from the era. The show, he explains, aims to explore the decade's artistic collaboration – and spotlight those who weren't given due recognition at the time.

"The establishment often failed to shine a light on the most relevant talents because they did not have the expected background," he states.

The magazine 72 itself operates on a different approach, eschewing traditional advertising in favour of integrated partnerships. "We ask, what can we achieve in partnership? Is it an experience, a series? The magazine is one component of a larger creative platform."

An Unstoppable Drive

Currently, Enninful stands as one of the world's most powerful cultural influencers. His path, he states, is a testament to the power of pursuing your passions.

How would the younger Edward react to the man he has become? He laughs heartily. "He’d be in shock, but he’d be pleased. At that time I was a rebel. I didn't think institutions like Tate were within my reach."

He adds. "Nothing is assumed. We were displaced, we fled our country. I nearly lost my vision. So fear is not a factor. People have counted me out my entire life. But nothing can stop me once I’ve set my intention to do something."